fujitsu troubleshooting manual

Whether you are experiencing an issue with your unit or just trying to learn how to do it right the first time around, this guide will take you through the most common problem with a mini split. The wire should be stranded, not solid core. Solid core wire has been known to cause more issues. Make sure the wire you select is rated for indoor and outdoor use. If you are installing a unit in a commercial application, an armored cable is usually required. As with anything, check your local electrical codes and consult an electrician to ensure proper installation. An air conditioner is no different. The control boards used in a modern mini split system are very much a miniature computer. These boards are susceptible to power surges, stray electrical energy, and RF (radio frequencies). Grounding the outdoor unit helps prevent some of the stray energy from getting into the board. Improper grounding can cause the same problems as no ground. Most systems will have a terminal block with L1, L2 and C. L1 and L2 are your hot lines. C is your common or ground. You can add a fourth wire to add an additional ground, which never hurts. Grounding the chassis of the condenser to a ground rod also adds an extra level of protection. If you use a grounding rod, check it on occasion for deterization. This refrigerant is much more environmentally friendly than the older R-22. It operates at a much higher pressure than other refrigerants and requires special care to ensure a properly functioning system. Make sure that you are using the right gauges for R-410A. The installation manual for your unit will specify the weight of refrigerant needed per foot of line set. Always follow these guidelines exactly. An improper amount of refrigerant can lead to many issues, including: Each mini split system will specify the proper size line set it needs including the size of the pipes, the minimum and maximum length, and the maximum height difference between the indoor and outdoor unit.

• fujitsu troubleshooting manual, fujitsu service manual, fujitsu service manual air conditioner, fujitsu service manual pdf, fujitsu inverter troubleshooting manuals, fujitsu air conditioner troubleshooting manuals, fujitsu mini split troubleshooting manual, fujitsu troubleshooting manual, fujitsu troubleshooting manual.

Also, noise may be particularly noticeable for about 2-3 minutes after starting operation (sound of coolant flowing). This is the result of minute expansion and contraction of the front cover due to temperature changes. This sound is produced by the Automatic Defrosting operation. This is due to Automatic Defrosting operation. If you wish to warm the room further, set the thermostat for a higher setting. During Automatic Defrosting operation, the OPERATION indicator lamp will flash. Let’s co-create your multi-cloud. Whether you want to focus on a specific technology, digital transformation or solutions specific to your sector, we look forward to co-creating with you. We’ve built our portfolio to help you achieve this with hybrid IT, end to end networking solutions and Digital Workplace Services. We are recognized worldwide for the quality of our work and have continuously improved our position in analyst rankings. Fujitsu’s extensive portfolio helps you strengthen your resilience against cyber attacks and improve security of your data, premises and people. From telecommunications to healthcare, we offer IT solutions to improve efficiency, increase productivity and reduce costs. Our specialized IT solutions enable you to create workplaces that balance employee autonomy with management control. Find out more about Fujitsu's IT solutions for the modern workplace. And by having access to our ebooks online or by storing it on your computer, you have convenient answers with Fujitsu Mini Split Troubleshooting Guide. To get started finding Fujitsu Mini Split Troubleshooting Guide, you are right to find our website which has a comprehensive collection of manuals listed. Our library is the biggest of these that have literally hundreds of thousands of different products represented. I get my most wanted eBook Many thanks If there is a survey it only takes 5 minutes, try any survey which works for you.

A wind baffle will expand the range of the unit. Some system are designed with extreme ranges in mind. Make sure you check your units specifications when looking for all year cooling. If you are having trouble with an older mini split, it may be time for a new one. Replacing boards or compressors on older systems can be expensive and time consuming. Exceptional build quality and commercial grade components are backed by industry leading warranties. Let our experts help you choose the best new mini split for your application. Thanks, Harry Everything else works well, fan cooler, dehumidifier but when we set it to heat, it turns off. The weather overnight was in the 20’s. Some mini splits, especially older ones do not perform well in cold temperatures. If available for your unit, you may want to add a drain pan heater or wind baffle. Everything work except heat. Would you advice ? I have 3 of this identical machines. Can I swap part to troubleshoot ? This is a constant issue after 1 week of worryfree use. Both units do this. I have had the installer here 5 times and the last time he replaced the exchanger unit outside. To no avail, the problem still exists. Anyone with a reasonable explanation will be greatly appreciated. My addition is cold and i need this problem fixed Also, the system probably needs a drain pan heater installed. Is that a reliable way to troubleshoot. Said it should be 90-100 degrees higher than ambiant temp which sounds high for a mini split. My question if is normal for a unit who feed 3 rooms to have the two lights ON all the time even if I lower the temperature. The other 4 units just turned ON the second light just during the time is trying to reach the temperature and go back to one light. All except one work fine. This one doesn't seem to put out much air, and makes a continuous annoying noise. It seems that it always has done it. Could it be the wiring. Reading through the article that makes the most sense.

Trying to reuse an old line set that is not correct for your system will result in failure. Unlike a central system, both lines require insulation. At least ?” insulation must be used to ensure proper performance. Make sure the entire line is insulated all the way up to the flair connections. No bare copper should be visible. Any contaminants in the lines could lead to severe damage to internal components or the system not working at all. It’s also important to pressure test the system. This will make sure that there are no leaks. Always make sure that your system is connected to the proper voltage. Even if the system is correctly wired to the proper voltage, issues can still occur depending on your electric service. If too high or too low of a voltage is delivered to the unit, damage to the boards can occur. Check the voltage at the unit before starting up the system and make sure it is within the approved range that the manufacturer states. If your voltage is too high, too low, or often fluctuates you should use a surge protector to make sure your system components are protected. Otherwise, the water can drip back into the room. If the the drain line is properly pitched, then the next step is to check for clogs in the line. You can use a gallo gun to clear any obstructions in the drain line. If you have a condensate pump and are experiencing leaking, check to make sure the condensate pump is properly wired and functioning. Make sure that the pump is installed properly and is not pumping higher than its rated height. If you have a heat pump unit and are trying to use it in cold weather, there are a few steps you can take to make it perform better. A wind baffle can also provide some help. Make sure that if you are in a location that gets snow your unit is installed on a stand or wall mount that is above the snow. You should also remove any snow from the top of the unit before operating. Overly windy areas can also negatively impact the unit.

Susan I would ask you installer to check it out. This only happens during cooling, not heating. Not sure what causes it to happen. Only happens intermittently and then the air is fresh again. It is enough to make you open all the windows and air the room out till the next time it does it. That smell is never in the room if AC is not used. Any ideas on how to solve this issue would be appreciated.The indoor unit was just cleaned since the technician (who is unfamiliar with this brand) thought the problem was because it needed to be cleaned. The unit cools but the blower is barely blowing, certainly not as it use to. Any idea what the problem may be? Thank you. After days it quick cooling. I’m guessing there must be a leak, but any other thing it could possibly be? We’re told there was a leak, and now, same issue. Compressor doesn’t come on. At a loss. Not even 1 year old. I have noticed that when using the AC it seems to act like it is in AUTO mode. During the heat of the day, the AC is on and seems to be working correctly in cool mode (snowflake), however occasionally I open the windows when it cools off outside and I find it on in the morning and putting out heat when the temperature is cooler than the set point. Both of the head units are set the same way, so I don't think its a conflict between them. The 18,000 unit seems to be lacking in production in AC mode. One of the 9000 units, which is placed on an opposite side wall seems to produce all the cold air. So much that I have placed this 9000 unit on fan ONLY mode and it still kicks out more cold than the 18,000 unit. Any reason why this may be happening? Why would this be? How does this happen? Lately they only work if they are both running and do not cool when they’re running separately. I can’t find any information on this I need help Indoor evap seems OK. Blowing room air temp. Outdoor unit fan works and runs continuously but compressor won't start. I can't belive the compressor went overnight.

Past warranty and refuse to return to original company we purchased from. THANKS! This just started and I have the timer turned off. We have had our HVAC guy out about 10 times, but most of the time we have to turn it off, bang on the outside door and restart it. This is really annoying because room temp goes low and our plants are dying. Should we call another HVAC guy, get a new unit or just keep the ladder out and bang on it periodically. Thanks so much I would get a second opinion from a new service tech. The cogged wheel does not seem to be broken or chipped on the right rear side of the door. Any other ideas? One develops a brownish oily residue on the airflow blades. What could be causes this to occur. Other than that, it works just fine. I routinely clean filters and coils are clean. Mitsubishi customer service was of no help. I was told to contact my installer. I'm also looking for a part for the outside unit to stop a slow drip. One doesn't seem to exist. Thanks for any help. I would recommend getting a second opinion from another professional. I tried tiring it off and on as well as reset the circuit breaker but the unit is still not working and all the lights are still flashing.That will tell you what the blinking lights means and what the issue with the unit is. A tech once told me if that line is sweating it's likely the system needs a charge. We put our gauges on and it's spot on. What else can I look for, the lines sweating in an attic area and dripping through. Any help appreciated I can't find this error code any where online or in the manuals. Anyone have any idea? Thanks! They are meant to draw the water from the dehumidifier up two feet to the outside drain. Why do they fail. Northeast of Albany, MY said this is an aftermarket part not warrenteed I would ask your installer what kind they are using and consider switching to a more reliable brand like Sauermann or Refco. Those do have warranties. Thank you for your advice.

There are no error codes. The two 9000 btu. Units work fine but the 24000 btu unit does not heat the way it should. It runs fine for about 10 minutes then goes into preheat mode for 10 minutes and runs fine again. No matter what the thermostat is set at it. Always goes into preheat mode 4 degrees before it reaches set temp. Is my problem with the thermostat or the unit itself. If unit is set on Any info will helpMy Fujitsu heat pump is working good except the door won't rise up. I cleaned the screens and the cogs look fine. How do you set the cogs on the door before closing? Just install ypthe Pioneer mini split. Model WYS012AMFI17RL. Instal went well no issues. However when I went to test and try the system the indoor unit doesnt work. I checked power from the fuse box to the line. Getting power. I checked power to the outdoor unit, yes getting power. I checke power at the indoor unit and no power. All the wires are tight and the red, black and white wires (1,2,3) are connsected to the same on the outdoor unit. I checked the wires directly at the indoor unit and not getipting power. What am I missing. Steve Set to 20 and it will run until 25 and cut out. Set to 21 it runs to like 26 and cut out. Installer says this is normal and how the unit works but don't make sense to me. Any ideas? Two units in a 500 sq ft apartment but the things can’t keep the place cold. Also main unit is making all kinds of noises. I have to turn it off it’s so loud. The AC guy that installed it can’t seem to get the thing to work right. How do I get a Daikin rep out to review the installation and trouble shoot? The outdoor units would add heat to the space and could cause them to lose efficiency and not perform well. I've been though the unit Cleaning filters, washed the coil and fan, sanitized fan. The squeak stopped but returned after a couple of hours. Tenant is not happy, please help. Could you please help me fix it.

Thanks Deb Now has gotten very annoying, we have had the unit for about 2 years now. I have been working with their support (who has been pretty good so far) to try and get it to put out cold air. It used to get much, much cooler and it seems to heat as expected. I did have to replace an external board, and I've replaced the internal board at the advice of Senville support. The only thing we've not yet replaced are the temp sensors. I did pull a vacuum and filled it by weight (with the bottle upside-down to get the liquid vs just the gas), and added the few oz.Any other suggestions on what I should try. The tech support did say my low side was registering a little high, unfortunately, the Senvilles don't have a high-side port. I have a 5 year old Klimaire mini spit that runs on 12k btu. It is only blowing hot air. Any trouble shooting ideas I can try before I call a pro? Thanks It has intermittently continued to cool well past thermostat setting (i.e. Thermostat set at 72, cools down to low 60's if not caught in time). I have my regular furnace set at 65 during the winter so it kicks on if the temp dips into the single digits disabling the split unit so we have heat (Unit is 12-130 degree range). This past April, while on vacation, it started cooling to the point the furnace kicked on and they essentially were fighting each other. We were gone for 10 days and we don't know exactly how long this went on, but the next electric bill should tell. This temporarily seems to work, but it seems to be becoming more regular. Any guesses? I have a 10 year old tri unit- cool only- LG. I only ever have had 2 inside units hooked up. These are both 12k. These power rooms on different floors. Recently the downstairs unit doesn’t cool but the upstairs works fine. I tried putting some more Freon in ( a professional did) and it worked for a couple days. The compressor comes on and shuts off a lot. Any ideas,? Thanks! Adding more refrigerant is just a temporary solution.

I have repaired many units over the years. Most of the time its the run cap or the evap fan. I downloaded the manual and searched online. I hate to replace the cap if some other failure is more likely. Any thoughts? All the indoor units are showing the condensate image and not turning on. Any suggestions? Can anyone tell me what this might be and a way to fix it. The unit is less than a year old but Canadians weather means we need heat. It is set for heat. It will run and heat then runs cool. Doesn't shut off when temp is met The larger unit was incorrectly installed which resulted in the unit leaking inside the house. I recently changed the filters - is there anything in my filter changing that would cause water to appear on the walls? Has anyone experienced water on the walls when their unit was in heat mode?The cooling seems to work fine, but when I shift the mode to heat, the outside unit stops running and the inside fan doesn't blow. The louvres continue to swing, but no heat. I changed the disconnect box and there is still no power to the unit. Its getting power to the disconnect box but no power to the unit. Please can u help me? We have a 2 year old Fujitsu Halcyon mini split running a ceiling cartridge downstairs and two smaller wall units in the upstairs bedrooms. A few weeks ago I came home to a cold house. The breakers for the unit were tripped. I reset them and still no power even to the thermostat. HVAC installer (via phone call with Fujitsu service techs) diagnosed fried circuit board, also the outdoor fuse was fried, Three new boards installed. This got power to the units, but fan speed was very weak at highest setting barely noticeable that air was coming out at all, the unit was set to the swing function but that function never engages, and air never warmed up with the thermostat set to 88 degrees, HVAC installer back, drained and weighed refrigerant (it was a couple lbs low). They pressurized the system but could not find a leak.

Replaced refrigerant and asked that we leave system on overnight in hopes it would throw a code, Today HVAC installer back. The breakers were tripped again as well as the fuse blown. After replacing fuse and resetting breakers the compressor is now toast too. No error codes, ever. The service techs are really not very nice either. Of course, the warranty does not cover labor, so the HVAC installer is not happy to be spending so many hours (16 or so now) diagnosing over the phone with Fujitsu. No offer to have a Fujitsu certified tech come to see what's going on. This is way over the abilities of the HVAC contractor. There is no indication that there was ever any type of power surge. What can it be? I think we need a whole new outside unit. I know when it’s cooling or heating, this is normal. There is no leak or anything. Just curious if there is a way to muffle the drip sound. Is it possible to put a rag or towel there where it drips to muffle it or would that create more problem than its worth. Suggestions? We have a few month old 9000 BTU Comfort Aire unit installed in our bedroom. Our contractor moved the location of the outdoor unit after it was installed and caused an issue with the refrigerant which then had to be refilled. After that the unit functioned correctly again for the last month up until the last few days. Now, nothing happens when we turn on the heat. When I turn on the AC, cool air does come out but I am unsure if that's just the cool air from outside or if the unit is actually working. Any thoughts on what might be the issue? I would have the installer check the system again and verify all connections. We are in the middle of winter and the unit is heating well but does not seem to be controlling the tempeture. Thermostat is set at 62 but the unit will heat up to 74 room temp. Running on auto mode and heat mode. Same results. Remote unit temp selected matches inside manual unit. Is this a thermostat problem or inside unit control board failure.

You will need to identify and fix the leak in the system. When in heating both work fine. When in cooling one head works fine, one head doesn't cool well. In a half hour or so of cooling unit shuts off. If you only turn on the one head that head begins to ice up immediately. When you turn the larger head on by itself that head operates fine. Can the LEV work in heating mode but not in cooling. When in heating both heads work well. Either unit will run on its own perfect, If I start the other unit with fist one running, they both work for about 5 minutes then both shut down. I need help After a storm where we lost power, I noticed the unit will only work at high speed (no matter what I set it to). This happened about 6 months ago, and since it was very cool outside I left is off for a couple of months. It has happened again and it is very hot now so I can't leave it off for long periods.Well he forgot to open the main gass from the unit to the header. Started the unit and got p4 code and now it seams the compressoris jamed acording to manufacturor and needs replacing. As ennyone managed to unjam a compressor a litle trick of the trade or something. This hvac guy realy put me in a jam he wont even answer my calls When using the Cooling it spit out small black specks of looks like dirt and it is real fine. I clean the filter as need and would like to know what is causing this. I put a unit in my Daughter house also and the same thing is happening. My until is about Five Years old and My daughters is about three years old. Can you help me. Thanks. Richard Geary We have a whole post on cleaning that you can read here. Both the inner and outer circuit boards have been replaced. The coolant level is right on the line between full and over full. I turn it on in the morning and E6 error code shows on inner unit, which is a communication error, the inner fan runs but compressor does not come on so no cooling.

As temp increases outside to about 78 the compressor will come on and the inner unit works normally and the E6 is gone. As temps go down in the evening the compressor turns off and the E6 reappears. During cooling if it rains and the temp drops quickly outside the compressor turns off and E6 is back. The circuit boards were replaced after a chipmunk electrocuted himself on the outside terminal block. I know where the terminal blocks are outside and inside. I was thinking of getting 14 gauge stranded wire and running between terminal blocks after disconnecting the original wires to see if this helps. Any ideas what is going on? I have a daikin multi split system, 1 outdoor for 3 indoor units. 2 Indoor units are only blowing warm air but 1 is still cooling. I have had daikin technician come 2 times and he first said he needs to change the body expansion, that was changed and done nothing. Now he said needs to take unit to work shop for trouble shoot. Any ideas? Thanks This error seems to be a condenser pipe sensor error. The heatpump comes on for awhile and then goes off with the error. In a half hour or 2 hours, it will start working again.and then go off with the error. I have had 2 techs look at it but they can't correct the problem. We appreciate that. Your email address will not be published and required fields are marked Notify me of new posts by email. With decades of experience we can help you learn about different types of AC units, figure out the right size, choose the best one, and then keep it running for years to come. We know you want your air conditioner to just work when you need it, so rely on Total Home Supply to stay cool! An Energy Efficient AC Guide Ductless Mini Split AC Line Sets: Which One Do I Need.